Tuesday, December 14, 2021

Full circle visit to Hiroshima - part 1 of 2

Last weekend David had a speaking assignment for our church, in Iwakuni (a small congregation associated with the military base there) and I tagged along.  We stayed in Hiroshima, and it was a "full circle" visit for both of us.  For David, it's because his grandfather immigrated from Hiroshima in 1919.  

For me, it's because I lived in Hiroshima three decades ago right out of college, to teach English.  Back then, work teaching English in Japan was really easy to find and I was at a bit of a loss after college, so came here on a whim to have an adventure and earn some money.  

I found a good job, then an even better one, and really enjoyed my two years in Hiroshima.  There was a fun group of expat English teachers from all over the U.S. and Canada.  I had some private English students.  I took koto (a traditional stringed instrument) and calligraphy lessons.  I got to know some young Mormon missionaries and ended up joining the Church.  An unusual decision for sure!  

So, a lot happened for me during those two years, and this was only the second time I'd been back to Hiroshima since then.  

Naturally, the city has changed dramatically since the late 80's.  Bigger trees, more buildings, more traffic. 

This is the Peace Dome - the only structure that survived the hypocenter of the bomb. I would ride my bike past this memorial every day to and from work.  


People come to pay their respects: 


View from our hotel room: 

Children's Peace Monument in honor of all children who lost their lives that dreadful day and in the years following, from the effects of the bomb: 


When I was teaching fourth grade, one year our class folded 1000 paper cranes to send to the memorial.  Here are some cranes in a nearby store window: 


Hiroshima is famous for its oysters and for Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki, which is just the BEST.  It is a layered dish of crepe, cabbage, bean sprouts, pork, and egg.  You can add green onions, eel and/or shrimp.  A Japanese friend of mine specifically recommended this little hole in the wall, so Friday night David and I met up with our young friend Joanna (who is a missionary in Hiroshima, via Tokyo, via the Phillipines) and her friends, for a nice bite to eat. 



The cook welcomed and even encouraged photos and videos.  She started with the crepes: 

Added heaps of cabbage: 


And so on: 






Ready to dig in: 


The next morning we randomly spotted some actual sugar maples, on our way to Hiroshima Castle. 


It is a beautiful reconstruction: 


No photos allowed inside, except for this (ha ha - there is a cute mascot for EVERYTHING in Japan).  



On the outer castle grounds, there are some beautiful holly trees - they survived the Bomb - and are a symbol of resilience: 




xo
Cynthia 

10 comments:

  1. I think it must be difficult to walk in a place that suffered such a horrific tragedy at the hands of man. The holly tree brought me to tears. A true testament to the strong will to live and forgive. Thanks for sharing your story.

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  2. I guess I never thought that Hiroshima would be rebuilt, and especially so beautifully. Thanks for sharing this story.

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  3. I wondered how you ended up in Japan with an attitude so familiar with the people and places. Now it makes perfect sense. You have quite an adventurous nature. I love the reverence the Japanese people have for life. I never seen anything like those holly trees - Wow!

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  4. What a story you have, Cynthia! I never knew all this history you have with Japan--or your husband's history with it, as well.
    I appreciated these glimpses of Hiroshima. I, too, had never considered that rebuilding would have taken place to create what appears to be a very vibrant city!
    I really love the holly trees.

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  5. Thanks for sharing a bit of your personal history. Now your deep appreciation of all things Japan comes into clearer focus! I had no knowledge of present-day Hiroshima, so thanks for that insight as well. Sobering but inspirational.

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  6. These posts are very interesting. Thank you for the share...and, for the nice comments on my blog xox

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  7. Thanks for sharing your story. No wonder you know so much about Japan! Always enjoy your posts and seeing all the great places you visit. It must be bittersweet to go to Hiroshima. So many memories yet so much tragedy from years ago.

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  8. What a great travel post! I always so appreciate when you take us along on your travels.
    Japan really understand symbolism and I respond to that very much. I loved the cat mascot :)

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  9. Thank goodness your husband's grandfather came to the U.S. decades before the bomb! These are beautiful photos and wonderful memories, Cynthia. It's hard to imagine having to rebuild after the bomb, and yet, like the holly, the people of Japan did just that. Amazing!

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  10. Glad you had a good trip to Hiroshima. I didn't realize that you'd been in Japan right after college. For awhile we were walking the same path.

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